How To Repair Kitchen Cabinet Floor

Your sink cabinet is extremely prone to rot and degradation. Eventually, even a small leak in the enclosed space below your sink can weaken the cabinet. Early on on, the particle board floor begins to warp and sag. Then the vertical walls detach, and your Lysol and Windex bottles tumble into a pothole!

Not surprisingly, a lot of contractors say that replacing the whole cabinet is necessary. Personally, I recollect this is a wasteful and expensive approach.

This article and video depict a much easier, more price efficient repair. In fact, it will fifty-fifty aid foreclose the trouble from occurring again.

Tool List:

Table Saw or Magnesium Circular Saw

Drill/Driver Combo Set up

Drip-free Caulking Gun

Best Picks:

Pigsty SAW $.25 requite this projection a corking finished look. Dewalt'due south quick-alter arrangement has nifty reviews.

If you lot want a more multi-functional option, a JIGSAW volition work merely every bit well!

BRAD NAILER/COMPRESSOR combos are great for this repair and pretty much all DIY.

Material Listing:

Liquid Nails

Brad Nails

i/2″ plywood (chiffonier-grade)

1x2x8 trim pino

Stain/Polyurethane or Paint

Small castor

Sink Cabinet Repair Overview

To tackle this problem, I normally install a new plywood floor over the sometime floor.

This solves a few issues at one time. It keeps the cabinet in place. That style, you don't have to remove the countertop, sink, and plumbing. Later on all, all that stuff is ordinarily OK. Besides, it gives you a semi-stable surface to offset with. The old floor acts every bit a temporary platform until you get the new floor installed and stabilized.

When I notch for plumbing, that's probably the most difficult phase of the job. However, hole saw bits make that footstep a breeze. I explain below what they are and how they're used.

Footstep 1. Gear up Your Plumbing

99% of all sink cabinet bug come from some sort of plumbing failure. Leaking drain lines, loose gaskets, and damaged water supply lines are common. Now the water collects in the otherwise dry out confines of your chiffonier interior.

This is a serious problem. Mostly because modernistic cabinets are frequently fabricated of shoddy materials that wick water speedily. And, yous might go days without looking into this cruddy area. Disastrously, the problem can run rampant before you even realize it's happening!

Hither's the key

Earlier you lot even attempt this repair,take your plumbing problem fixed. Period.

The materials that I use are more water-resistant than typical sink cabinet materials. However, anything volition rot, given enough time. Save yourself a handful of problems and have your sink fixed by a qualified plumber. Periodically check it to make certain nothing else has failed.

Here's a good link that explains basic sink plumbing components, in case yous want to know a little more most how yous sink works.

(And, if y'all're an adventurous DIYer and are because attempting a sink repair yourself, this video might help…)

Step 2. Mensurate the Sink Cabinet Floor

First, pull measurements on your cabinet interior. Almost all base of operations cabinets mensurate 24″ deep, and something like 32″ broad. Naturally, the floor itself is slightly smaller than this. (Since information technology sits inside the walls and face frame of the cabinet.)

Yous only need one slice of i/2″ plywood large enough to fill this space. A two'x4′ slice should do. Lowes and Abode Depot sell plywood by the half-canvass and quarter-sheet. Then you relieve money and hassle by non having to purchase a full sheet.

The repair is complicated past the fact that you can't to fit a total-sized replacement piece into the cabinet. That'due south because the face frame divider in the front is in the way.

That means you need to install the new floor in 2 separate pieces that encounter in the center.

Pull a measurement from the left wall to approximately the middle of the cabinet (behind the face up frame divider). This will be the width of your first piece.

For precision, wait to measure the 2nd piece until the first has been installed.

Step three. Cutting First Piece, Marking For Pipes

Apply a table saw or circular saw to cutting the first piece to length and width. And so, bring it into the house and work it roughly into position within the cabinet.

This piece may meet with plumbing lines virtually the back of the chiffonier. If so, you tin't lay it down flat correct away. Instead, you take to sort of stand up it upwards like a ramp. Hold the front of the piece high. That fashion, information technology'due south pointing downward and is touching the pipes.

Attain into the chiffonier with a pencil and marking the plumbing locations on the edge of console. Draw a unmarried line at the exact center of each pipe. Eyeball the location of the plumbing direct from the front, to exist sure you're lined up well Very chiefly,be sure that your panel is pressed up against the side wall firmly. If yous don't, the panel won't sit where you want it to.

Finally, mensurate the width of each pipe, and where they sit in relation to the front wall of the cabinet. Barrel your record to the pipe and pull to the inside edge of the chiffonier face up frame. In other words, from the front edge of your slice to the piping. To determine the pipe's width, agree the blade of your tape up to the pipe and sight it.

It's a tight fit

The sight lines are hard to achieve. However, getting these numbers right is crucial for making this repair piece of work. You probably will have to stuff yourself into the cabinet to get accurate measurements. Try not to blindside your caput in the procedure. If you lot practice, try to continue the cussing level downwards. You don't want to scare the kids. Or educate them!

Pace iv. Cutting Holes For Pipes

There are ii ways you lot tin can handle these cuts. The easiest of the two is to employ pigsty saw $.25.

These circular, saw-toothed bits chuck into your drill and cutting by spinning like whatsoever normal drill bit. They come in a range of sizes. If you have hole saw $.25, select ones most a i/2″ bigger than the bore of your pipes. Use them to cut your holes.

If you don't have hole saw bits, then you have to cut these holes with a jigsaw.

This is a lot more difficult. Find circular objects (appropriately sized) to use as tracing templates for laying out the holes. Then, utilize the jigsaw to follow these guide lines.

In either case, end this step past cutting directly lines from the holes to the back edge of the panel. These directly cuts will provide clearance for the panel to slide into the cabinet effectually the pipes.

Finished? Test the piece to make sure that you've laid everything out accurately. Also, make sure that the panel is not touching copper pipes. These metal lines "sweat" with condensation. That water will be captivated by the inner border of the panel.

Step five. Measure And Cutting Second Panel

With the beginning panel lying in place, pull measurements to it from the other side of the cabinet. Measure out at the front edge of the first panel, and the back edge. This mode, if the cabinet is slightly out of square, you can account for information technology.

Cut the 2d piece to fill this existing space equally closely equally possible. Is at that place plumbing on this side of the cabinet? If then, repeat the steps above to lay out laissez passer-through holes for the second console.

Exam fit the second console in the cabinet. Focus on getting the two panels to fit tightly together at the heart andfront of the cabinet. If in that location are gaps at the side and back, that's okay. These gaps will be less noticeable, and you tin can fill up them later on with caulk or construction adhesive.

Pace half-dozen. Attach Both Sink Cabinet Floor Panels

Remove both panels from the cabinet and run a thick bead of construction agglutinative around the perimeter of the old floor. Utilize big blobs in any places where the flooring seems to have sagged below level.

Carefully place the panels dorsum into position in the cabinet. Gently, button them downwards into place. Try non to get adhesive on the faces of the new panels. (Additional cuss warning.)

Carefully spread a lilliputian adhesive on the two edges where the two panels come across. This volition help hold them together more securely.

Is at that place a big dip in the center of the flooring?

If the center of the chiffonier has an specially large dip in it, add together a back up blocknether these two pieces.

To do this, find a flake of plywood several inches long and a few inches wide. Smear both sides with adhesive. Lift one panel and go it out of the way temporarily. Position this support cake halfway beneath the edge of the panel that's still lying down. Use a brad nailer to shoot a few nails downwardly through it. (DON'T SHOOT NAILS THROUGH YOUR FINGERS!)

Now, lay the other piece back in place, and shoot through it into the support cake besides.

When the adhesive on the back up cake dries, these panels are locked together very securely. They're certainly potent plenty to deport the weight of whatever you store in the cabinet.

Everything should be positioned where you want it. Shoot a few nails through perimeter of the new floor pieces, into the onetime flooring. This will concord them in place while the glue dries.

Pace vii. Cut And Adhere Confront Trim

The edge of the new panel volition now be visible from the front. No one likes to look at an exposed plywood edge, so conceal it with a sparse strip of trim.

First, rip a piece of flat ane×2 pino trim to a thickness slightly more than the thickness of ply panel. Side by side, cut it to length. Information technology needs to fit between the centre divider and the vertical stiles of the confront frame. Make a custom piece for each side of the cabinet opening.

I don't even bother to nail these pieces into place sometimes. I just cutting them then they fit tightly, spread glue on the undersides, and push them down into identify to let them dry on their ain.

Pace viii. Pigment or Stain the New Cabinet Floor Panels

If your cabinets are painted, prime and paint the new panels and trim pieces. Match the cabinet face color as closely as possible. Apply an exterior paint to help protect against future leaks, and utilize at least ii coats.

If your cabinets are stained, get a stain/polyurethane combo that will match the chiffonier exteriors. Close enough is skillful enough here. This isn't a place that will be seen oftentimes. Again, ii or more coats are necessary.

Finally, hide the gap effectually the border of the console with colored caulk or adhesive. Run a dewdrop just large enough to hide the gap around the full perimeter. Polish it into place with a gloved fingertip. (I used more than Liquid Nails in this project considering it was relatively shut to the stain color.)

Sink Cabinet Repair Wrap-Up

Let everything dry out thoroughly before you put any items into the sink cabinet. Also, attempt to provide as much ventilation every bit possible while the wet paint and adhesive set up. Open a door, or run the HVAC fan to carry the fumes away.

Afterwards, be sure to check the sink plumbing occasionally for leaks. The new sink cabinet floor panels will be able to stand up to a lot of abuse, merely why test them? Sitting water in a house is never a good thing!

If you have any questions, or if you lot accept a suggestion for a subject of a futurity blogpost, please go to our Contact folio. Thanks!!

Source: https://thehonestcarpenter.com/blog/sink-cabinet-repair/

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